J'avais trouvé ça :
"Basically like any mono synth, you have a range and scale trimmer per oscillator.
- Range is the base tuning.
- Scale is the distance between an octave and is the trimmer that is crucial to proper intonation.
- If you can visually see where the pitch is on the oscillator on your visual tuner, I'd suggest trim the scaling first, trim it so playing two octaves apart is visually perfect,
- then bring the range into the correct tuning next. Do this with both tuning knobs fully left, and both oscillators on the lowest octave switch. This of course only works if your tuner has an indicator to see that the scaling is a perfect 2 octaves (regardless of what the base frequency is).
- Once you bring the range to the right note ie. "C", check to see that two octaves up are also a perfect C since you've already adjusted the scale. You might need to readjust things slighty but I find this method the fastest.
- The -1v trimmer is for the octave switches. You will notice that it might be out of tune once you switch to a higher octave. If your lowest octave is in tune, switch up two octaves then adjust the -1 trimmer so 2 octaves up is in tune. After that, you should be good !"
De mes vieux souvenirs d'école, si la calibration est une droite genre ax+b, offset c'est b et pente c'est a. Si un octave n'est pas juste, c'est la pente qui est fausse. Si tout est simplement décalé, c'est l'offset qui n'est pas bon. Apparemment, sur ton truc, ce qu'il appelle scale correspond à la pente.
Les gros m'aiment bien car je suis gros, les cons m'aiment bien car je suis con, mais les gros cons ne m'aiment pas car ce sont des gros cons.
sample-and-hold a écrit :Alors change le tuning et reviens au scale ! :)
Je vais regarder si j'ai encore mes notes quand j'avais accordé le Pro-One d'un pote...
Hello,
Bon, rien de "simple", j'avais juste suivi le manuel de service en faisant autant d'aller retour entre les étapes pour affiner.
Va falloir que tu fasses avec ! :)
Et bien le laisser chauffer avant de commencer.
---------
This paragraph describes adjustment of the four trimmers accessible through the front panel. All four trimmers interact, so this procedure must always be completed in the order presented. The entire procedure is done by ear, without instruments. What you will be listening for is often described below by the term "zero-beat." This refers to the principle that two pitches near the same frequency produce "beats" at a rate equivalent to their difference. For example, if your ear is presented with two pitches such as 440 (A) and 444 Hz, it will hear also four beatsper- second. As one pitch approaches the other, the number of beats-per- second decreases until they can hardly be counted. This point is called "zero- beat," indicating the two oscillators are tuned to exactly the same frequency (or some harmonic "overtone").
-OSC A SCALE-
1. Patch according to Figure 4-0. Note trimmer names and locations.
2. Hit C0 and adjust OSC A FREQUENCY for zero-beat.
3. Hit C3 and adjust R128 OSC A SCALE for less than 1 Hz beating.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until no further improvement can be made.
_-1V TRIM_
5. Switch OSC A OCTAVE to 0.
6. Switch OSC B OCTAVE to 1.
7. Hit C0 and adjust OSC A FREQ for zero-beat. 8. Switch OSC A OCTAVE to 3.
9. Adjust -1V TRIM for zero-beat.
-OSC B SCALE-
10. Switch OSC A OCTAVE to 1.
11. Switch OSC B OCTAVE to 1.
12. Turn OSC A FREQUENCY to 5.
13. Turn OSC B FREQUENCY to 5.
14. Switch OSC B KYBD on.
15. Hit C0 and adjust OSC B FREQUENCY for zero-beat.
16. Hit C3 and adjust R148 OSC B SCALE trimmer for less than 1 Hz beating.
17. Repeat steps 15 and 16 until no futher improvement can be made.
_OSC A OFFSET_
18. Adjust OSC A FREQUENCY to 0.
19. Switch OSC A OCTAVE to 3.
20. Adjust OSC B FREQUENCY to 0.
21. Switch OSC B OCTAVE to 3.
22. Hit C1. Trim OSC A OFFSET for zero-beat.